Sihanoukville and Kampot (Cambodia)

I arrived in Sihanoukville just before dark. I always try to avoid getting to new places at nightfall, but sometimes it happens. My guidebook painted a very lovely and rosy picture of Sihanoukville- a coastal city in southern Cambodia. After walking from the bus station to Victory Hill area (supposedly the cheap backpacker area) I realized that something was amiss. There were 6 or 8 girly bars with middle-aged western men and young Cambodian women wearing a little to much make-up and not enough clothing.

At the corner, my partner and I got offers for every type of imaginable thing that would be illegal in the US. I don't consider myself a conservative prude, but I was definitely thrown off by the description I had read. Apparently, things are changing really fast. Cambodia is more than willing to sell its land (and national treasures) to foreigners. This saddens me. Foreign ownership should not come at the expense of the local economy as it does in Sihanoukville. Is it really necessary to have an Italian, Swedish, Austrian, and Mexican restaurant in one little tourist area?


The next day, we headed to Serendipity beach. It was absolutely horrible. Hundreds of tourists lounging in chairs on the sand. Half as many Cambodians trying to sell goods and services (massages, etc.). The beach was not pretty. The water appeared especially dirty. Out of curiosity, we checked out accommodations. For the same price as we paid in Victory Hill ($5), the standard declined considerably.


Maybe I am unaware of the benefits of the ex-pat presence in places like Sihanoukville. But after seeing the disgusting state of affairs, I have renewed my commitment to eating at local establishments and staying at local owned guesthouses. It is the least that one can do for the struggling Cambodians.